Wednesday, December 30, 2009
Monday, December 28, 2009
life is just
A delayed merry christmas to everyone that reads this blog (i think im the only one that actualy writes and reads on it)..Everything in my life at the moment is pretty much routine. I havent gone on a good surf trip since the gold coast and apart from a fun day at west cape last week there hasnt been many waves where the winds have been favourable and waves over 2 foot.
Other news though. my lovely girlfriend holly is heading over the the frigid temperatures of europe for 7 weeks. my boredem factor will properly increase ten fold for the next few weeks until i head off to samoa where i will be lapping up the coconut cocktails and surfing over pristine reefs. something to look foward to
my lovely girl
Other news though. my lovely girlfriend holly is heading over the the frigid temperatures of europe for 7 weeks. my boredem factor will properly increase ten fold for the next few weeks until i head off to samoa where i will be lapping up the coconut cocktails and surfing over pristine reefs. something to look foward to
Friday, December 18, 2009
Freeme co.
Freeme co. is the brainchild of the young mind Sam Norwood. He's just recently armed himself with a housing and has been shooting the surf every chance he has. His website freeme co is a cool lil site that showcases some cool local photos, artists, musicans and anything inbetween. I recommend checking it out here when you get the chance.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
fuck off negativity
a few months back wattsy karl and myself ventured over and hoping to get some waves at a few different waves on a different coastline. the swell forcast was for small waves but with favourable winds on our side we thought we'd get some waves. arriving we saw some swell pouring into the beach. hopes were high thinking we could get an infamous left on..walking across the dunes we were kicked in the twig and berries with 1-2 foot waves closing out on a dry ledge. discussions were had and shapes were eaten and the call was made to go for a lovely hour walk to a wave down the other end of the beach..walking along a beach isnt as romatic as it sounds and we were pretty glad to get to the wave. rockin up we saw one break out the back and just roll onto the inside ledge where the thing opened up and reeled into a little bay...we sat and watched it for a few minutes not seeing another one do what had just happened..
Hope were dampened we knew we had another hour walk back along the beach but we were faced with waves not worth driving 9 hours for. a tough decision.to surf or to walk back...
We walked back thinking the closeout onto dry ledge could, would and hopefuly will be better..walking back along the beach we were looking into the left reeling along the reef..yelps were coming left right and centre."did ya see that one..fucking sickk" was said atleast one every few minutes.
After a fastened walk back thinking the tide would make the waves rideable we finally realised that our screams and yelps were for nothing..it was shit although one or two came through that made karl and myself keen enough to get out there and wash away our negative thoughts..
A few closeouts later we were soo off it..we got skunked 9 hours for 2 foot closeouts..shit..fuck..tits..bullshit...
another 20 minute walk back to the car didnt help the cause for some of us.on the way back to the car we walked past another wave that works on small swells which earlier in the morning it had just been washing through and wasnt really doing its usual goodness. But something changed. sun was out. tide changed. wind straightened up and we were faced with perfect 3-4 foot lefts reeling along this amazinly perfect reef with only 3 other mates out.
Usualy this wave cant handle anything over 3 foot as it washes though making it unsurfable but for some reason there were some solid 4-5 foot sets coming though and it was holding it. We surfed pumping waves by ourselves everyone screaming each other into these perfect pits all morning until the wind killed it in the ass..Quite contempted with out trip so far we knew it was going to be similar if not a little bigger the next day so we were amped..
We woke early thinking another pretty famous right might be on in the morning..but the trend of the trip continued and it wasnt so we drove back to the wave we previously surfed the day before.
It was pumping again the swell had straightened a little and was hitting the peak perfectly making it a dead perfect split peak..lefts and rights were draining down this shallow little reef with no one else within a 150 km radius of it..
Another morning of pumping waves with no one about and we were all amazed how perfect the waves were the last few days.
Theres nothing better than driving back home when you cant count how many barrels you have got in the last 48 hours and spirits were high for the drive home..it was a good trip and shows you that negativity is never the way.
Heres some framies courtesy of Wattsy.
Hope were dampened we knew we had another hour walk back along the beach but we were faced with waves not worth driving 9 hours for. a tough decision.to surf or to walk back...
We walked back thinking the closeout onto dry ledge could, would and hopefuly will be better..walking back along the beach we were looking into the left reeling along the reef..yelps were coming left right and centre."did ya see that one..fucking sickk" was said atleast one every few minutes.
After a fastened walk back thinking the tide would make the waves rideable we finally realised that our screams and yelps were for nothing..it was shit although one or two came through that made karl and myself keen enough to get out there and wash away our negative thoughts..
A few closeouts later we were soo off it..we got skunked 9 hours for 2 foot closeouts..shit..fuck..tits..bullshit...
another 20 minute walk back to the car didnt help the cause for some of us.on the way back to the car we walked past another wave that works on small swells which earlier in the morning it had just been washing through and wasnt really doing its usual goodness. But something changed. sun was out. tide changed. wind straightened up and we were faced with perfect 3-4 foot lefts reeling along this amazinly perfect reef with only 3 other mates out.
Usualy this wave cant handle anything over 3 foot as it washes though making it unsurfable but for some reason there were some solid 4-5 foot sets coming though and it was holding it. We surfed pumping waves by ourselves everyone screaming each other into these perfect pits all morning until the wind killed it in the ass..Quite contempted with out trip so far we knew it was going to be similar if not a little bigger the next day so we were amped..
We woke early thinking another pretty famous right might be on in the morning..but the trend of the trip continued and it wasnt so we drove back to the wave we previously surfed the day before.
It was pumping again the swell had straightened a little and was hitting the peak perfectly making it a dead perfect split peak..lefts and rights were draining down this shallow little reef with no one else within a 150 km radius of it..
Another morning of pumping waves with no one about and we were all amazed how perfect the waves were the last few days.
Theres nothing better than driving back home when you cant count how many barrels you have got in the last 48 hours and spirits were high for the drive home..it was a good trip and shows you that negativity is never the way.
Heres some framies courtesy of Wattsy.
Monday, December 7, 2009
Christmas has come early
Chris Apps from Science bodyboards has sent me down a new board for the summer and my trip to Samoa. Its a Science 5 and looks mighty fine and all im hoping for is some good waves to test it out in. the new range is out and you can order all your science boards from Big Surf Aus in Middleton.
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