Hope were dampened we knew we had another hour walk back along the beach but we were faced with waves not worth driving 9 hours for. a tough decision.to surf or to walk back...
We walked back thinking the closeout onto dry ledge could, would and hopefuly will be better..walking back along the beach we were looking into the left reeling along the reef..yelps were coming left right and centre."did ya see that one..fucking sickk" was said atleast one every few minutes.
After a fastened walk back thinking the tide would make the waves rideable we finally realised that our screams and yelps were for nothing..it was shit although one or two came through that made karl and myself keen enough to get out there and wash away our negative thoughts..
A few closeouts later we were soo off it..we got skunked 9 hours for 2 foot closeouts..shit..fuck..tits..bullshit...
another 20 minute walk back to the car didnt help the cause for some of us.on the way back to the car we walked past another wave that works on small swells which earlier in the morning it had just been washing through and wasnt really doing its usual goodness. But something changed. sun was out. tide changed. wind straightened up and we were faced with perfect 3-4 foot lefts reeling along this amazinly perfect reef with only 3 other mates out.
Usualy this wave cant handle anything over 3 foot as it washes though making it unsurfable but for some reason there were some solid 4-5 foot sets coming though and it was holding it. We surfed pumping waves by ourselves everyone screaming each other into these perfect pits all morning until the wind killed it in the ass..Quite contempted with out trip so far we knew it was going to be similar if not a little bigger the next day so we were amped..
We woke early thinking another pretty famous right might be on in the morning..but the trend of the trip continued and it wasnt so we drove back to the wave we previously surfed the day before.
It was pumping again the swell had straightened a little and was hitting the peak perfectly making it a dead perfect split peak..lefts and rights were draining down this shallow little reef with no one else within a 150 km radius of it..
Another morning of pumping waves with no one about and we were all amazed how perfect the waves were the last few days.
Theres nothing better than driving back home when you cant count how many barrels you have got in the last 48 hours and spirits were high for the drive home..it was a good trip and shows you that negativity is never the way.
Heres some framies courtesy of Wattsy.
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